Ski-Daddlers are sitting in barns, garages, fence
lines and fields all over. Depending on how the sled has been stored and cared for here is what you can expect to find
Engine: There seems to be about a 50/50 chance, if the sled has
been sitting long, that the engine may be froze. Success may be found with liberal doses of WD-40, Liquid Wrench, Essentialube,
etc though the spark plug hole. Be patient. If the engine is free, a good carb cleaning and diaphram kit along
with new fuel lines and a thorough tank cleaning may do the trick. The JLO engines are durable and parts are available
through numerous sources. The MAG 540 found on the 22" Wide Tracks is even more so durable and it is a good thing...parts
are difficult to come by though crank seals may be matched locally. Not much seems to go wrong with the MAG engines
as long as they receive oil in the fuel mix. You'll also find Kohler and Hirth engines in the appropriate models and
parts are available for these engines, too.
Rust is the enemy of these old sleds and, depending on where the sled was stored, rust will be present to some degree.
The chassis is robust and responds well to sandblasting. All of the steel chassis from 1967 were gloss black.
Bearings and bogie wheel tires are available, drive and idler sprockets can be a challenge to find new or used.
Beware the plastic fuel tank on the 1967 and 1968 "grayline" sleds....it is likely cracked or collapsed. These
plastic tanks were flimsy when new and we find very few used ones that are servicable. These two years of Ski-Daddlers
require removing the track and front drive axle removed to access the tunnel-mounted tank through an removable panel...big
job. Solutions include plastic welding if the tank is mostly intact, fiberglassing
the tank or fabrication of an aluminum tank to fit in the tunnel. Another alternative is to mount a plastic tank
from a riding lawnmower or other small engine application under the cowl and plumb it to the engine. Starting in 1969,
the grayline sleds had a metal fuel tank integral to the tunnel, though these can rust and may leak.
Chrome: It is easy to spend more money than the sled is worth replating
all the chrome parts! So, it is an added bonus if your sled has been stored indoors in a dry climate and is has chrome
that is rust free or lightly spotted. The chrome used by AMF cleans up well if it is lightly rusted. Wadded up
aluminum foil soaked with water does a fast job of removing light to medium rust.
Upholstery: The seat material on the 1967 to 1969 models was of exceptional quality. We
have a number of sleds with original seats that are still in good shape and very usuable. If the silver material is
stained, Duplicolor makes a silver dye in a spray can that can make the seat look like new. Uphostery on late models
was also good and some NOS seat covers are floating around for sale.
Fiberglass: The fiberglass is of good quality for the day, very heavy, particularly on the gray
sleds. Due to the way the steering column is supported on the 1967 and 1968 models, cracking may be a problem.
Starting in 1969 the gray line sleds had a metal support brace/tube added for the steering column to eliminate stressing
diagrams are simple for most models. The Bosch "Dynastart" on the MAG engine is strong and reliable and may
be overhauled at most auto electric shops.
System: See the "Chassis" section above for cautions on the fuel tanks. The Tillotson carbs will likely
need at least a cleaning and diaphragm kit if the sled has been sitting with old gas. Fuel lines are simple to replace.
As far as fuel/oil mix ratios, the 20:1 specified by AMF is a thing of the past and dates back to the days that regular engine
oil was mixed with gasoline for two stroke use. Most modern oils can be mixed at 40:1 with good performance and long
plug life I've been runing 40:1 for ever all my old sleds with no difficulties.
Some of the decals used are still available on the NOS market. More frequently, reproduction decal sets are also available
from various sources.